Comments on: Nearly Frictionless Woodworking: Surface Drag http://www.my-boat-works.com/blog/?p=461 Free Professional Boat Repair and Seamanship Help! Fri, 27 Aug 2010 02:00:58 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.1 By: Jerr http://www.my-boat-works.com/blog/?p=461&cpage=1#comment-60 Jerr Tue, 01 Dec 2009 08:09:06 +0000 http://www.my-boat-works.com/blog/?p=461#comment-60 I was taught in my traditional cabinetry apprenticeship to wax and buff all surfaces of my machines, to make a slick surface, so I would only push the piece against the resistance of the blade or bit. This is extremely important, not only for accurate cuts but for safety: If you strain to push a piece through a blade, you'll not be smooth and steady and the cut will be wobbly. You're also leaning into the blade, violating one of the cardinal safety rules because when you slip, you'll fall into the blade and be maimed or killed. Gruesome, so please, don't ever do that! Always use sharp (Yes, obsessively sharp) blades and slick, clean (no debris) surfaces. If a surface is grabbing or a blade burning, fix the problem before you ruin your piece and your body. Don't make the beginner's mistake of thinking "Just one more piece." If you are thinking that, you should have taken care of the problem ages ago and you're working at a fraction of your accuracy and efficiency. To make this easy, I have two sets of every blade. For years I waxed my jigs and tables, until I was swept up by a professional woodworking store buyer and forced to enter the 21st. Century, discovering among other things two products (TopCote and DriCote) made by Bostik. TopCote gives a much more slippery surface, is a ton easier to apply (spray and quickly wipe) and doesn't build up. BladeKote prevents pitch buildup and they're both great products. I've effortlessly ripped huge beams (>200#) safely by myself this way. Here's a link to them on Rockler ( http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2072&filter=top%20coat ) but they're widely available in professional woodworking & woodworking equipment stores. I was taught in my traditional cabinetry apprenticeship to wax and buff all surfaces of my machines, to make a slick surface, so I would only push the piece against the resistance of the blade or bit. This is extremely important, not only for accurate cuts but for safety: If you strain to push a piece through a blade, you’ll not be smooth and steady and the cut will be wobbly. You’re also leaning into the blade, violating one of the cardinal safety rules because when you slip, you’ll fall into the blade and be maimed or killed. Gruesome, so please, don’t ever do that! Always use sharp (Yes, obsessively sharp) blades and slick, clean (no debris) surfaces. If a surface is grabbing or a blade burning, fix the problem before you ruin your piece and your body. Don’t make the beginner’s mistake of thinking “Just one more piece.” If you are thinking that, you should have taken care of the problem ages ago and you’re working at a fraction of your accuracy and efficiency. To make this easy, I have two sets of every blade.

For years I waxed my jigs and tables, until I was swept up by a professional woodworking store buyer and forced to enter the 21st. Century, discovering among other things two products (TopCote and DriCote) made by Bostik. TopCote gives a much more slippery surface, is a ton easier to apply (spray and quickly wipe) and doesn’t build up. BladeKote prevents pitch buildup and they’re both great products. I’ve effortlessly ripped huge beams (>200#) safely by myself this way. Here’s a link to them on Rockler ( http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2072&filter=top%20coat ) but they’re widely available in professional woodworking & woodworking equipment stores.

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